Lots of walking on asphalt today but at least it was flat. 16 miles. Nice weather again.

I’m staying at an albergue tonight. An albergue is the most basic lodging on the Camino. Think hostel. Dorm style beds. The vast majority of pilgrims only stay in albergues.

Fortunately this albergue has a few private rooms, of which I reserved one. Even so it’s pretty basic. No AC. Towel like cardboard. Hard bed. But it does have its own private bathroom with shower. All this luxury for 20€.

Basically I’m spoiled, so I try to avoid albergues but sometimes there aren’t any good alternatives.

The best things about albergues…

• There are usually lots of people (but seems pretty empty here)
• Clothes lines available for drying clothes. That helps a lot.
• And, sometimes there are community meals. A nice way to meet people.

Here are some miscellaneous photos from today’s walk.

Q: What’s the biggest difference between the Camino in Spain and Portugal?

First, the number of people. There are so many more people on the Spanish route (which is officially called “The Camino Frances” since it links Spain to France). I would meet dozens of pilgrims each day in Spain and I’m lucky to meet two here in Portugal. That said, the route gets a lot busier in Porto, and then again at the Spanish border, so this may change.

Second, the infrastructure for pilgrims is better in Spain. On most days in Spain you don’t go more than 5km (3 miles) without coming on a café or store (and a bathroom). It’s far less consistent in Portugal.

Third, many of the towns on the Spanish route exist only because of the Camino. They are focused on pilgrims. There are special meals for pilgrims. Hotel check-in is tailored for pilgrims. People embrace pilgrims. Here pilgrims seem more like a second thought. They are recognized, but not key to the town’s existence. Again, this may change a little after Porto, we’ll see.

Finally, there are just the differences between the two countries:

• Spain isn’t a wealthy nation exactly, but it feels richer than Portugal. Things are generally in better shape in Spain. The Pharmacist in Coimbra told me salaries are terrible in Portugal and he’s hoping to move to another country soon.
• The Spanish language seems easier to understand. Portuguese sounds Russian, sometimes. A town name I think I know how to say, sounds completely different when a local says it.
• My sense is that the Portuguese people keep more to themselves. If I say “bom dia” to someone, they will always respond, but virtually no one initiates conversations on the street or in a store. My recollection is that Spanish people are a little more engaging and loud.