Day 18 – Ghiare/Pontremoli

Bill’s Camino Rule #17: Fatigue tops FOMO every time.

Let me explain… During the first week of your Camino, walking a few extra miles to see a beautiful view is worth it. But, by week three, forget that, you’re tired and want to take the easiest route.

Today, this rule came into effect…

My planned stage was to be one of the most beautiful of my whole pilgrimage with many great views and historic sites. It was 18-miles and had some climbing (~1200 feet), hard but doable, especially for the great views.

But, I realized yesterday that I had made a mistake. It wasn’t 1200 feet of climbing, it was 1200 meters. That’s over 4000 feet! That means that this would be the longest stage of my entire pilgrimage and also have more climbing than any stage. And, heavy rain was expected in the afternoon.

At this point in my camino, nice views aren’t worth walking 8 hours on steep climbs and descents. I planned an alternative.

The video below gives you a blow-by-blow of what I did and how it went. Spoiler alert… I made it to my finishing town.

Heavy rain expected for the next two days so more route adjustments are planned. More on that tomorrow.

The road not taken. That’s a crazy route profile especially the two steep downhills in the rain.
The road I walked had lovely views the whole way. I really did’t expect that.
I walked through one town today, and it was next to a large expressway, but still remained quaint.
Somehow, I ended up crossing a pilgrimage route. I’m not sure which one.
Today’s walk was a big unknown.


Today’s Data

Starting Temp: 52

Finishing Temp:62

6 thoughts on “Day 18 – Ghiare/Pontremoli

  1. What an adventure! I love Rome2Rio. That is my go-to. And when you are so remote that there are no options, you know you are winning. Glad you got creative. And a 4000 foot elevation gain in one day is definitely not worth it in this context, and you were rewarded by a lovely day in a lovely town. That room looks gorgeous. Well found.

  2. It’s so easy to say “the Romans” or “10th century” in Italy. It’s shocking how young our country is sometimes. More good pictures, lol. Glad you didn’t take that crazy road less traveled. Sensible!

    1. I feel the same way. Native American history didn’t involve buildings or writings (at least that survive), so there is so little to point back to beyond a few hundred years in America.

  3. Forgive me if you’ve already answered this question–but how did you find your accommodations on this route? It doesn’t look like there are gites or albergues. Are there places that particularly cater to pilgrims? Or are there so few pilgrims that you simply stay in hotels or guest houses?

    1. There are pilgrim hostels but not as many, so you need to plan a bit more. I prefer private rooms (I snore) so I book hotels ahead of time. I sometimes stay in the icon albergues, but not this time.

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